By Amy Savage

Nestled on a hill, back in the woods, in the southern part of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania is Hillacres Jerseys owned by the Arrowsmith family.  

Home to one of the top Jersey herds in the nation, this family operated farm has bred numerous All-American nominations and had recent success at the All-American Jersey Show held in Louisville, Kentucky winning the milking yearling class with their own, Hillacres Rhonda Ricotta. In addition, their prefix is found on the Supreme Junior Champion animal of the Junior show, Hillacres Be A Star.  If that’s not enough, this multifaceted farm with a high caliber herd is also where premium cheese and beef are produced with Tom and Mandy Arrowsmith at the helm.

In 2003, the Arrowsmith family realized the need for more income.   Herd expansion was not an option due to the land base, nor was it a desire, therefore they decided to get into the cheese business.  They began by producing aged cheeses such as Colby & Cheddar, and eventually branched into cheese spreads made from 100% Jersey cow milk from their herd.   These cheeses were all made locally.  

Originally, the plan was to target the tourist market in Lancaster County, but they soon found out that most of these stores lacked refrigeration.    After exploring several options, they sold their first cheese in 2006 at the local farm markets found in the Philadelphia area

Currently the Arrowsmiths are selling at farmer's markets three days a week with Mandy's mom in charge of running the stand.  In 2007, beef from the Arrowsmith's Jersey steers was added to the product line.  During the months that the market is open (April- November), the Arrowsmiths average sending three steers to butcher each month.  

Last year, the family decided to branch out even further into making their own soft cheeses.   They discussed making cheese from raw milk but felt there was already enough of that product in the local market place and decided to go the pasteurized route.    After installing the necessary equipment and getting the necessary permits, the first soft cheese was made in May 2009.   The soft cheese selection includes ricotta, mozzarella and fromage (similar to cream cheese).  The Arrowsmiths still have their hard, block cheese made nearby. 

Their pasteurizer holds 150 gallons but Mandy typically does batches of 50-80 gallons at a time.    The milk is heated to 145 degrees for 30 minutes, then it begins the "cool down" which typically takes 2 1/2 hours to reach the 90 degrees used to make cheese.    The cool down is done by running water through what is called the jacket. Typically Mandy pasteurizes milk used for cheese, once a week, occasionally twice a week.

Recently the Arrowsmiths have also started to sell raw milk at the farmer’s markets.    They have to use a mechanical filler in order to sell to the public. 

The Lancaster County 4-H Milk Duds took a tour recently to learn about the cheese making process.  Mandy suggested to the group, that if anyone was thinking of doing something similar, to visit lots of different places to get ideas of what works, what doesn't, and gain suggestions.  

Mandy explained to the group that there are many different types of cultures and this varies depending on what cheese you are going to make.  Some people even use different cultures to make the same cheese.    She commented, "Cheese making is as much of an art as it is a science." 

While the group was there, Mandy demonstrated making cheese curds

This tool is used to go in and "cut" the curds that are in a solid mass.

 Michelle Peila stepped in for a closer look.

Here the curds are being separated from the whey.

 The cheese curds continue to drain.

The tour group then enjoyed a sampling of the products.

Future plans for the Arrowsmiths include to try and expand their current business and market more of their cheese products.  They are also looking into possibly branching into yogurt and pudding.